The Worm Flows route is by far the most popular of the "off season" climbing routes on St Helens. The ascent is relatively straightforward, following a well-trodden trail to June Lake and the low timberline where ancient lava flows once poured down the flanks of this active volcano. From here, pick a route on the open lava flow. Stay on one of the small ridges to minimize avalanche hazard. Curve left once you get near the crater rim, but be sure to stay well back from it, as cornices here are truly gigantic and a fall into the crater would be catastrophic. The true summit is west of where you top out, but again, reaching the "high point" is not recommended because of the cornice hazard. On a clear day, the views are spectacular, but if you are stuck in fog, be sure to bring navigation devices. The slope on the upper mountain is as much as 35 degrees, but can be ascended (and descended!) on skis in the right snow conditions. Avalanche hazard is highest in the afternoon if it's sunny. I.

Said to be some of the best canyoneering along the Columbia Gorge, Eagle Creek can be as short or as long as you'd like. There is a popular trail, Eagle Creek Trail that follows the creek for many miles. You can take the trail and then bushwhack to the creek to begin the descent downstream along the canyon. This route hikes the trail to the 30 foot Punchbowl Falls and then returns back along the creek, rappelling down the falls in the creek. If you hike up farther, there are larger falls, so plan for rope and webbing accordingly. You can view details about each falls along the creek at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Creek_waterfalls

Mt Baker's North Ridge is a classic climb on ice of a variety of inclines and features massive and ever-changing blocks of glacial ice on top of the ridge's rock. The ridge is usually approached on the Heliotrope Ridge Trail and the climber's trail leading to the the camp just below the western arm of the Coleman Glacier. From the camping area, climb to about 6,500 feet and traverse across the broad expanse of the Coleman, keeping near that level until the North Ridge draws closer, then make a rising traverse up to it. The actual route taken will vary according to crevasse hazard. Depending on the status of the moats that open in mid summer, either hop directly onto the ridge at its toe or circle left to find a better place to cross onto it. The climbing on the ridge is very straightforward, though steep, until you reach the famous ice cliff at about 9,800 feet. The ice can be vertical or even overhanging for a move here. The final march to the summit might involve traverses to avoid the massive bergschrunds at the top of the Roosevelt and Coleman Glaciers. Return via the standard route on the upper Deming and Coleman Glaciers. Bring several ice screws, pickets, and a second ice tool. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. III AI3

The Adams Glacier pours off of the northwest face of Mt Adams in a giant icefall that is very dramatic to behold. This popular route features a long but exceptionally scenic approach followed by interesting climbing up the glacier. Crevasse and serac hazards will determine your actual route, but most climbers approach the icefall on the right and work their way left near the top. Be sure to get an early start, as afternoon heat increases the danger of falling ice and rock. Easiest descent is via the North Ridge. Bring the usual mountaineering gear as well as glacier gear, ice tools, ice screws, and pickets. A Cascades Volcano Pass is required to travel in the alpine zone. II AI2.

The south face of Prusik Peak is a wall of 600 vertical feet of some of the cleanest granite in the Cascades. The face is quite imposing from the Enchantment Lakes to the south, but is frequently climbed. From Lake Viviane, hike north to the base of the main south face. The traditional route begins at the base of a deep chimney with little protection. Angle up and right followed by a short left to a ledge. Continue diagonally right up slabs to a smaller chimney, then right onto Snafflehound Ledge in two pitches. Traverse east then up another pitch to a small tree. From here, there are 3 more pitches up a series of cracks to a notch east of the summit. Overall, there are 10 leads. Descent is via a rappel on the north face followed by a hike to Prusik Pass and the trails back to high camp. Camping is strictly regulated by a quota system and it can be difficult to obtain a spot with less than a few months advance planning. Contact the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest for more information. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. III 5.9.

The North Ridge of Mt Stuart is a classic alpine ascent with a challenging approach and climbing. The most frequent approach is from the south via Ingalls Lake following the same route as for the West Ridge until, near the start of climbing on that route, a traverse is followed to Goat Pass northwest of the mountain. Traverse across the Stuart Glacier, which can be glare ice late in the season, to a gully trending east at an approximate right angle to the North Ridge. The gully tops out at about 8,200 feet to where the climbing begins. There are between 15 and 18 pitches from here to the summit. The first 11 pitches to the Great Gendarme vary from scrambling to 5.7. When you reach the base of the Great Gendarme, make a 75 foot rappel to the west and into a 55 degree crack that can hold ice well into summer. Traverse right on a friction slab and up to a ledge. From here, it's mostly Class 4 along a subsidiary spur to the summit. Descent is usually via the Cascadian Couloir. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. III 5.7

Eldorado Peak is one of the giants of North Cascades mountaineering, sitting in the middle of several large glaciers and with outstanding views of the rugged terrain surrounding on all sides. The West Arete is a prominent rock buttress that, while not nearly as popular a route as the eastern approach, is a great rock climbing challenge. Follow the standard climber's trail from the North Fork Cascade River up Eldorado Creek and into the basin of Roush Creek. Traverse below the Eldorado Glacier to the notch separating Eldorado from The Triad. Descend the glacier on the northwest side of the notch and traverse beneath the rock ribs on the West Face of Eldorado until reaching the West Arete. The first 800 feet of climbing is Class 4. The first challenge begins at the first of several rock towers along the ridge. The first tower involves traversing to the north side to a chimney, which is followed to the top of the tower. The next few towers are generally avoided by weaving around them in a traverse. The final tower is summited, followed by a rappel to continue on the ridge. The remaining climbing to the summit is Class 4. Descend via the standard east route. Bring a full rack, including chocks and slings. IV 5.8

Forbidden Peak's pyramidal summit is a very popular objective due to its accessibility, stunning alpine scenery, and solid rock. The East Ridge Direct route is scenic and technical and significantly less crowded than the West Ridge route. To access the ridge, follow the climber's trail to Boston Basin (camping allowed but limited, pick up a permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station) and locate a gully that leads to a snowfield west of the ridge, which is reached at about 8,300 feet. The East Ridge is known for its spectacular scenery and exposure as well as the series of overhanging gendarmes that are usually directly climbed (but most of which can be traversed if desired.) The route essentially follows the ridge directly to the summit. On the descent, most parties either take the West Ridge route or make about 5 rappels down the East Face to a series of ledges that lead south to the point where you can cross back to Boston Basin. III 5.8

Buckner Mtn, guarding the eastern end of the massive Boston Glacier, is one of a handful of 9,000 foot peaks in the state of Washington. The North Face is a classic Cascades ascent, involving a long approach across a crevasse-ridden glacier followed by 1,300 feet of sustained 40-50° snow and ice climbing leading directly to the summit. From Boston Basin, climb the Quien Sabe Glacier to the col between Boston Peak and Sahale Mtn. This col is sometimes used as a high camp. Ascend the small south peak of Boston Peak (very loose rock) and descend onto the Boston Glacier to about 7,500 feet. Pick your way across the glacier, taking care to avoid the many large crevasses. Near the start of the route up the face (approximately 8,100 feet) is a large bergschrund that can be quite problematic in the late season. Once past this obstacle, enjoy the sustained smooth climbing, generally entirely on snow and ice, all the way to the summit. Most parties descend the same route, but the Southwest Route is a good non-technical escape option. Bring ice screws, pickets, a second ice tool, and glacier gear in addition to the normal climbing equipment. III AI 1

Mt Triumph is an important and easily recognizable peak visible from Highway 20, and is known for its very steep triangular summit pyramid. There are several routes to the summit, with the Northeast Ridge among the most direct of them. Follow the trail to the outlet of the lowest of the Thornton Lakes, then take a boot path to the middle lake and up a snow/talus gully to a 5,850-foot notch, the most popular site to establish a camp. Descend a snowfield, bearing left of a bump, to the slabby rock (or snow in early season) below the melting glacier (watch for falling ice) on the peak's east face. Class 4 scrambling takes you to the obvious notch in the Northeast Ridge at 6,100 feet. The ridge consists of about 7 pitches (with a 60 meter rope; a second rope makes the rappels much easier) of climbing with a 5.7 crux pitch involving an off-width near the middle of the ridge. The last few hundred feet are easy scrambling to the summit. The descent follows the same route, but some parties choose to descend the South Ridge and then onto the eastern glacier. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. Camping requires a permit from the ranger station in Marblemount. III 5.7