Best Climbing in Virginia

Trying to find the best climbing in Virginia? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

Virginia, Fairfax County

00 :08 hrs
0.4 mi
16.753227 ft
Various

Located 14 miles from Washington D.C., Dihedrals Wall is one of many cliffs that sit along the Potomac River in Great Falls National Park. The rock is steep and drops straight into the river. With a variety of activities and the pleasant atmosphere, this area is a gem and very popular. Most of the climbing is toprope using trees for anchors. To approach the wall follow the trail and watch for the Mather Gorge plaque. Scramble down either side of the cliff to reach the bottom.

2

Maryland, Montgomery County

00 :02 hrs
0.1 mi
9.648067 ft
Various

Carderock is a cliff band that lies in a peaceful hardwood forest setting just outside of Washington D.C. along the east side of the Patomac River. The setting is beautiful and pleasant for climbing or just spectating. Routes are all toproped using tree anchors above the cliff line. To reach the base of the wall scramble down to the gully to the trail that skirts along the river. Nubble Face is located on the Hades Heights side downstream of the descent gully. You’ll find a good variety of difficulty levels. The river is directly behind the base of the cliff and very scenic.

3

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :03 hrs
0.2 mi
35.87256 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Junkyard Area is located off Ames Heights Road just down from Alpine Pine Campground. It is a busy crag that offers several moderate routes, excellent cracks, quick and easy approach, and easy toprope access. Some classic crack routes not to be missed are Four Sheets to the Wind, New Yosemite, and Stuck in Another Dimension.

4

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :33 hrs
1.1 mi
41.241882 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Snake Buttress offers classic face and some new classic sport routes. The sun beats down during the summer so save this for spring, fall or winter climbing. Park in the Nuttall parking or Fern parking lot and descend down the Honeymoon ladders.

5

Kentucky, Menifee County

00 :23 hrs
0.3 mi
119.17212 ft
Various

Located in the Lower Gorge area of Red River Gorge this south facing wall is a stretch of rock above the Red River. The short steep approach starts across the street from a small pullout on North Fork Rd. You’ll find quality crack with an occasional great sport route.

6

Kentucky, Menifee County

00 :06 hrs
0.1 mi
25.335724 ft
Unknown

Phantasia is located in the Northern Gorge area of Red River. The wall features a small number of great sport routes with a short approach to steep pocket-full routes.

7

Kentucky, Wolfe County

00 :22 hrs
0.9 mi
- ft
Unknown

Located in Red River Gorge, Muir Valley Nature Preserve, LLC (MVNP) is over 400 acres of private property, open to climbers and hikers. Please be respectful of the rules here. Climbing guides are available and active, approach trails are well-maintained, and there might be attendants on arrival to the parking lot. The Boneyard is one of over twenty walls in the valley and it has a handful of outstanding routes.

8

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :32 hrs
1.1 mi
39.24878 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Flash Point Area offers a good mix of trad and sport routes with a few classics like Flash Point and Euro-Nation. Access from Honeymoon ladders and park at Fern Parking.

9

West Virginia, Pendleton County

00 :17 hrs
0.5 mi
50.798553 ft
Various

Seneca Rocks is a premier climbing area that is rich with history and best known for incredible multi-pitch trad routes that offer an old-school climbing feel. It is impressive, but intimidating and requires confident gear placement. The approach is steep and exposed- with some routes that require climbing a 5.2-5.5 to reach. The rock can be loose so be sure to bring your helmet. Camping, gear and guides are available at Seneca Shadows Campground or Yokum’s in town. Ecstasy Buttress is the first buttress of rock after crossing the river. The trail splits and the Ecstasy routes are to the right (south end of cliff).

10

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :24 hrs
0.9 mi
39.24878 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Fern Cirque is located just beyond Party Buttress, tucked in with old trees. It holds shade on those hot summer days. You won’t see the crowds on this wall and there are just a few routes worthwhile. Park at the Fern Creek parking area and descend down the Fern Creek Ladders.

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