Best Mountaineering in Utah

Trying to find the best mountaineering in Utah? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.


Utah, Salt Lake County

04 :24 hrs
4.1 mi
790.8242 ft

This is an exciting scramble up a knife edge ridge. Great exposure with straight forward route finding. It sees a lot of traffic as a training/fitness route for bigger peaks. Climb the south ridge to summit. Descend via the east ridge over to Cardiff peak and down the pole line pass trail. You will hit the highway about a half mile up canyon from where you parked. No pro or ropes are needed. Nothing over a 5.2 move on the route. And that is only in one or two spots.


Utah, Salt Lake County

06 :13 hrs
1.8 mi
883.9524 ft

This is barely a mountaineering adventure because you need crampons and an axe to make it safely. This route moves up a narrow chute that collects avalanche debris from a large basin above. During April - June there is normally a large snowfield of debris remaining that you can climb. Depending on conditions you may need to make a few rock climbing moves. Be careful of weak places in the snow created by the stream running underneath. It's a beautiful chute along a stream and numerous small waterfalls. This route goes about as high as could be safely climbed solo. Your conditions may vary.


Utah, Salt Lake County

08 :04 hrs
9.1 mi
1064.1392 ft

The Pfiefferhorn is located in the Lone Peak Wilderness and is one of Utah’s classic rugged peaks to summit. During the winter it offers a fun and exhilarating mountaineering adventure. Beginning at White Pine Trailhead this route makes a loop by ascending up the traditional summer route past Red Pine Lakes and to the summit; then descending down Maybird Gulch. Bring an ice axe, crampons and a helmet.


Utah, Draper

10 :15 hrs
10.4 mi
1640.4702 ft

Lone Peak is a remote and rugged peak that offers several routes from every direction with unique terrain. Any route you choose is long, challenging and adventurous. This route is known as the “open book” route. The approach begins in Draper and follows the Jacob’s ladder ascent to the cirque. This is a brutally steep and long trail. The cirque is a great place for camp if you are planning on making an overnighter trip. Once you reach the cirque the technical climbing begins. There are 4-5 pitches up the giant slab directly below the summit. All pitches are rated between 5.6 to 5.7. The route is well protected and all belays require natural anchors. Bring a single rack that includes a set of stoppers #4 to #13, a set of C4’s #.3 to #3 (with an extra #2), C3’s #0 to #2, a dozen trad draws plus two or three double length slings. Reaching the summit is amazing and the incredible vertical drop to the cirque is unforgettable.


Utah, Mount Olympus

05 :14 hrs
5 mi
1227.1292 ft

Mt. Olympus dominates the Salt Lake City skyline. Beginning at the Cove trailhead in a residential area this route follows a well-defined trail to the top of the snow couloir at the base of the West Slabs. This wall is extremely wide and offers unlimited routes. It is close to 2000 feet of climbing and involves several pitches. The climbing is easy with nothing more technical than a 5.6. From the top of the West Slabs views are excellent and your route up the west ridge is obvious. There are six summits up here and this route will summit each of them. It involves continued up and down scramble climbing with occasional exposed and technical sections where you will want to rope up. Descend down the main hiking trail. Bring a small standard rack, an ice axe and crampons for the section of snow just before the wall. Many trees are available for quick belays or protection on pitches.


Utah, Salt Lake County

07 :21 hrs
1.5 mi
1127.1201 ft

Dromedary Peak is a rugged and rarely visited peak. There are several approaches and this route begins in Little Cottonwood Canyon at Tanners Flat Campground. The terrain is rocky and should be attempted by experienced climbers only. You will climb up the gulch and aim for the saddle between Dromedary and Sunrise Peak. Once you reach the saddle traverse the ridge to reach the summit. This involves class 3 scrambling and some route-finding skills. Sunrise Peak lies west of Dromedary and is and often climbed in the same trip if you get an early enough start. This route is a dangerous avalanche chute so winter trips should never be attempted. Summer and fall trips are not ideal because of the danger of loose rock and scree in Tanners Gulch. Bring a helmet, ice axe and crampons.


Utah, Salt Lake City

13 :56 hrs
4.5 mi
1511.8928 ft

Dromedary Peak and Sunrise Peak are prominent peaks along the Wasatch Range. Sunrise is also known as O’Sullivan Peak and labeled as such on most maps. These two are usually visited together because they are so close in distance. The terrain here is rugged and adventurous. There are several approaches and this route is the most popular and begins at the Broads Fork trailhead up Big Cottonwood Canyon. The first few miles follow a well-defined trail to some picturesque meadows and a small pond. Once you reach the boulder field there is a lot of scrambling, exposed terrain, steep slopes and basic climbing moves to reach the summit. You should not have to attempt anything more difficult than a class 4 move, if proper route finding is done. Once you reach the saddle and ridge you will drop into the Little Cottonwood side to bypass a difficult climb. Bring a helmet, ice axe and crampons for winter and spring ascents. This area is prone for avalanches so be smart.


Utah, Salt Lake County

12 :07 hrs
5.6 mi
1096.0278 ft

White Baldy is a rugged and seldom-visited peak along the Wasatch Mountain Range. Begin at the White Pine Trailhead and follow the popular and well-traveled route to White Pine Lake. Before dropping down to the lake the route climbs steeply to the ridge that separates White Baldy and Red Baldy. Climbing west along the ridge is fun and requires class 3 scrambling to reach the summit. Bring an ice axe, helmet, and crampons.


Utah, Millard County

09 :22 hrs
3 mi
1191.7491 ft

Notch Peak is second highest pure vertical drop in the United States. With a vertical rise of over 2,000 ft. the view is incredible. This is remote and unique terrain. The approach climbs up a beautiful desert granite canyon. It is true north facing and involves 12 pitches to climb. The second pitch has some 5.11 moves but most of the climbing is 5.10 that is well protected. There is no doubt this is terrible limestone that is loose and dirty. Rock fall is a huge hazard so be sure you’ve got your helmet. All belays are on comfortable ledges and you will be in the shade most of the time. Rapelling back down is the best descent. Bring two 60m ropes, a single rack to 2” and a dozen alpine style draws.


Utah, Salt Lake County

02 :09 hrs
2.7 mi
703.0996 ft

This is a great road side adventure. You boot pack up the famous Y couloir but take the right fork 3/4 the way up. Once you reach the top of the fork, look for a weakness in the ridge on the right. This will lead you to the head of the Y Not. A little over halfway down the couloir gets steeper and begins to narrow to not much wider than your skis. You will see anchors for the rappel on skiers left. You will need a 100 ft rope.

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