Best Climbing in Oregon

Trying to find the best climbing in Oregon? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

Washington, Skamania County

14 :04 hrs
5.7 mi
1706.6259 ft
I

The Worm Flows route is by far the most popular of the "off season" climbing routes on St Helens. The ascent is relatively straightforward, following a well-trodden trail to June Lake and the low timberline where ancient lava flows once poured down the flanks of this active volcano. From here, pick a route on the open lava flow. Stay on one of the small ridges to minimize avalanche hazard. Curve left once you get near the crater rim, but be sure to stay well back from it, as cornices here are truly gigantic and a fall into the crater would be catastrophic. The true summit is west of where you top out, but again, reaching the "high point" is not recommended because of the cornice hazard. On a clear day, the views are spectacular, but if you are stuck in fog, be sure to bring navigation devices. The slope on the upper mountain is as much as 35 degrees, but can be ascended (and descended!) on skis in the right snow conditions. Avalanche hazard is highest in the afternoon if it's sunny. I.

2

Oregon, Clackamas County

12 :03 hrs
3.6 mi
1540.218 ft
II

Standing over 11,000 feet and the highest peak in Oregon, reaching the summit of Mount Hood is a great accomplishment with great reward. The views on the top can take in many peaks in Oregon and Washington. To reach the summit, you must be comfortable with glacier travel and route finding. You must take a helmet, crampons, a rope, and ice axe. The ascent begins with a groomed trail from Timberline Lodge to the top of the Palmer chairlift. After this, there are no marked trails. Once in Devil's Kitchen, rocks may fall as the weather becomes warmer. After this, follow the climber's path to Hogsback, a steep snow ridge and also the path above the bergschrund, a large glacial crevasse. Finally, once above the bergschrund, follow the standard route to get through the Pearly Gates to reach the final ascent to the summit. Once on the summit, do not stray to overhangs on the northeast as they may break off.

3

Oregon, Hood River County

07 :36 hrs
3.4 mi
834.14795 ft
III

During the early summer/spring time you will encounter snow and lots of it. Prepare and bring crampons/ice axe if you go in this time frame(Spring-early Summer). Lots of vertical gain and if you go beyond the trail at the top(~7000ft) you'll be thrown into a class four scramble then into a class five ridge climb for 30-45 feet(horizontally ~7500ft). Lots of fun though, be safe.

4

Oregon, Hood River County

02 :05 hrs
4.4 mi
126.10484 ft
3

Said to be some of the best canyoneering along the Columbia Gorge, Eagle Creek can be as short or as long as you'd like. There is a popular trail, Eagle Creek Trail that follows the creek for many miles. You can take the trail and then bushwhack to the creek to begin the descent downstream along the canyon. This route hikes the trail to the 30 foot Punchbowl Falls and then returns back along the creek, rappelling down the falls in the creek. If you hike up farther, there are larger falls, so plan for rope and webbing accordingly. You can view details about each falls along the creek at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Creek_waterfalls

5

Idaho, Idaho County

13 :40 hrs
5.8 mi
705.0393 ft
IV

He Devil and She Devil are known to be the tallest mountains in Idaho's Seven Devils Wilderness near the west border of Idaho, and the two peaks are pretty much equal in height. Climbing in the Seven Devils rugged nature will mostly be Class 3 however, plenty of Class 4 and technical routes are applicable by nature as well. You'll notice that the slopes between the valley bottoms and the upper rock walls in this area are generally the realm of the talus and scree fields. Exasperation will need to be done as you ascend, descend, and traverse the many such fields. In this regard, climbing along ridge crests may well be the best way to go. Winter ascents are rarely recorded in the Seven Devils Mountains, and snowmobiles are prohibited.

6

Idaho, Idaho County

12 :31 hrs
5.8 mi
667.25635 ft
III

Known for its dark granite parapets, spires, and ominous setting, the Seven Devils range is a popular area for mountaineers in the Hells Canyon wilderness. To get to Tower of Babel, you'll have to start at Seven Devils Campground and hike past Devils Tooth to Sheep Lake. The summit is visible from Windy Gap, with castle-like stone figures. This route will follow the southern ridge and will make a complete spiral to make it to the peak.

7

Oregon, Marion County

08 :14 hrs
13.2 mi
1482.0469 ft
S3

One of the most beautiful routes in Oregon, skiing the Jefferson Park Glacier on the north face of Mt Jefferson is best done in the summer and as an overnighter camping at Jefferson Park by the lakes. This is a very scenic volcano that is surrounded by gorgeous wilderness and is mostly untouched. Following Whitewater Creek Trail to Jefferson Park Wilderness where there are multiple lakes and wildflowers, the route then turns uphill following the glacier. Watch for crevasses if you hike high on the glacier. The higher on the glacier you ascend, the more technical gear is needed. If camping at Jefferson Park, you can also ski the Russell Glacier another day.

8

Washington, Yakima County

17 :35 hrs
5.9 mi
2030.4974 ft
I

The South Spur is the standard and least challenging route up this massive volcano, and presents minimal alpine hazards under normal climbing conditions. The route is essentially a walk-up with ropes not necessary but crampons and an ice ax essential for most of the year. After following a good trail to timberline, you can swing east and climb to South Butte and continue up Suksdorf Ridge to the Lunch Counter, or opt for the more direct route by heading straight up a gully and its adjoining ridge. Camping at Lunch Counter is a popular option, but this route can definitely be completed in a single day. The steepest part of the route, up to 35 degrees and often on snow through July, leads up to Pikers Peak at 11,650 ft. From here, cross a short flat section and make the final ascent to the summit. Skiing and glissading descents are very popular as long as the snow lasts. A Cascade Volcano Pass is required to go above 7,000 ft. I.

9

Oregon, Linn County

09 :19 hrs
4.8 mi
899.9552 ft
I

Due to the crumbly rock of Mt Washington, this route along the North Ridge is the best one to reach the summit. Starting form Big Lake, this route connects with the Pacific Crest Trail and connects with a climbers' path leading toward the north ridge. The route follows the ridge until the final pinnacles that need to be avoided by taking the western route. To get back to the saddle, you will be need to ascend a loose gully. Roping up at the saddle is recommended. Scramble right to a chimney leaning left. The chimney continues for about 30 feet where face climbing for another 30 feet will put you to the top of this step. The remaining climb to the summit is straightforward and includes a final short gully. Climbing equipment needed.

10

Oregon, Clackamas County

05 :10 hrs
2.7 mi
1058.1807 ft
S3-

A great place for intermediate backcountry skiing, Palmer Glacier is best done when Timberline Lodge Ski Area is closed. On descent, take the same route, as going too far west will lead to danger in the Mount Hood Triangle. This is a wide open space and usually prone to bad and windy weather, but if you ascend on a clear day, the views from the mountain are breathtaking.

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