Best Aid Climbing in New York

Trying to find the best aid climbing in New York? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

New York, Essex County

00 :03 hrs
0.1 mi
9.309021 ft
Various

The main face at Poke-O-Moonshine Mtn offers one of the highest concentrations of quality multi-pitch climbing in the Adirondacks. There are 161 routes spread across the half-mile long face. The routes tend to cluster in the 5.10 to 5.11 range, but there is a good selection for most difficulty levels. The rock is a dark granitic gneiss that often forms large slabs with minimal protection, but is broken by diagonally-trending igneous dikes of lower quality that often form ledges. Please park only at the state campground, which is currently a day-use area only. Check the sign at the parking area for peregrine falcon closures in the early to mid-summer.

2

New York, Essex County

00 :33 hrs
0.4 mi
212.04947 ft
Various

This impressive cliff is one of the few in Chapel Pond Pass that is hidden from the road, which gives it a feeling of great adventure and solitude, despite a relatively short (but rocky and wet) approach. The 300' high cliff is slightly concave with numerous overhangs and is streaked with black and white due to lichens, water, and erosion. Most of the routes are face climbs as there are very few cracks or other features; indeed, protection is generally sparse. The three main sections from L to R are Peasant Wall, Wall Ruler, and Kingdom Come; most of the good routes are in the latter two sections. The trailhead is opposite the highway from Jewels and Gem.

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