Best Climbing in Massachusetts

Trying to find the best climbing in Massachusetts? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

New Hampshire, Jaffrey

03 :01 hrs
3.7 mi
542.9433 ft
I

Mt Monadnock is one of the most climbed mountains in the world due to its proximity to major urban centers and the alpine aesthetics of its exposed granite summit cone. It is not a long outing and the ascent consists largely of walking well-established trail through dense woodlands. At about 2,600 feet the trail encounters craggy granite domes in coniferous forest. At 2,900 feet the route steepens considerably as you work your way up a section of ledges in the final stretch; these ledges are not terribly technical but fall consequences exist. It is extremely important to check and heed weather reports before setting out, visibility is often limited making route finding difficult. Crampons and ice axe are necessary for this outing.

2

New Hampshire, Jaffrey

01 :41 hrs
3 mi
354.87387 ft
S2

This short tour climbs at moderate grades through the dense woodlands in the shadow of Mount Monadnock. The highpoint of the tour is reached rather quickly at the point that the route departs from the White Dot Trail. The descent is a little over a mile and a half of gentle cruising on low angle terrain.

3

Connecticut, Meriden

00 :02 hrs
0.1 mi
26.951813 ft
Various

East Peak is the name for a collection of cliffs looming above the city of Meriden. Ranging from the Castle Crag below the rock castle on the mountain top to the Fall Wall on the east side of the mountain, the cliffs here are standard central Connecticut traprock and have an abundance of nice vertical cracks and dihedrals. The easiest access to the cliffs is from the top of the summit road and the trail that leads east from the parking area. Bear in mind that this road has a gate that closes at 4:45 p.m. daily and is generally not open at all November through April. Climbing is technically illegal at most of the sites in this area (on town of Meriden property) but is generally tolerated. The crags can also be accessed from below via some fainter paths (with parking at Hubbard Park.)

4

Connecticut, Hartford County

00 :29 hrs
0.9 mi
55.272614 ft
Various

The Firewall is a small cliff densely packed with a mix of sport and trad routes and has one of the largest roofs in the state. The cliff is located in a town (Southington) park with numerous trails and a reservoir, and a $25 annual parking pass is required to park in the lot, which is gated, so please be aware of the time. There is NO parking on the roads within at least a mile of the park. From the lot, follow the trail along the south shore of the lake, then take a left at the four-way intersection. The trail leads to the top of the cliff. Rap down or walk around to the base. Be aware that rattlesnakes and copperheads have been sighted here.

5

Massachusetts, Adams

03 :01 hrs
1.9 mi
677.84607 ft
S3-

The Thunderbolt Ski Trail was carved into the woods of Mount Greylock by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s and remains Massachusetts go-to spot for ski touring. The route is climbed and descended the same way so care should be taken to avoid getting in the way of downhill traffic on the ascent. There are views to be enjoyed from the summit of Greylock but be aware that it is a developed area complete with parking lots and a visitor’s center (closed in winter).

6

Massachusetts, Worcester County

00 :23 hrs
0.5 mi
81.380035 ft
Various

Located a short distance from Boston, Crow Hill offers classic routes on decent rock. The crag is climbable spring through fall but the early season presents problems; the rock is persistently damp and the area is buggy April through June. The approach is short and easy. Be sure not to leave valuables in your vehicle as they may be ganked.

7

Massachusetts, Norfolk County

00 :03 hrs
0.1 mi
5.8096924 ft
Various

An interesting climbing experience to be sure, Quincy Quarries is urban climbing in the extreme. Located just south of Boston this open pit quarry closed in 1963 and over time climbers and more recently graffiti artists moved in. The rock is excellent, but much of it is coated with a thick slathering of Krylon®. The overwhelming majority of the routes here are top-rope, rigged from easy walkups. If you are in the Boston area the quarries are worth checking out, just clean anything worth pilfering out of your car.

8

Connecticut, Meriden

00 :03 hrs
0.1 mi
7.8408737 ft
Various

Cathole Mtn is a small crag that packs in several good moderate to expert routes on central Connecticut's signature traprock. The very short approach adds to the crag's popularity, but the traffic noise from the nearby road can hinder communication. Cathole is also known for somewhat loose rock, as the talus pile at its base attests to. All of the climbs here can be done trad or on toprope; the trail to the top is around the far right end and is short but steep and loose. Toprope anchors can be made at the top, but the trees are set back a good 20' from the cliff top.

9

Massachusetts, Franklin County

00 :57 hrs
1.4 mi
192.95374 ft
Various

Rose Ledge is located in the verdant hill country in Western Massachusetts on Northfield Mountain. The crag is composed of gneiss with horizontal striations that create long square edged holds and occational roof features. The approach is a little on the long side but the woods here are pleasant and the power utility infrastructure that occupies the area isn't terribly obtrusive. The trailhead is located at the Northfield Mountain Ski Center.

10

Massachusetts, Norfolk County

00 :05 hrs
0.2 mi
4.823345 ft
Various

An interesting climbing experience to be sure, Quincy Quarries is urban climbing in the extreme. Located just south of Boston this open pit quarry closed in 1963 and over time climbers and more recently graffiti artists moved in. The rock is excellent, but much of it is coated with a thick slathering of Krylon®. The overwhelming majority of the routes here are top-rope, rigged from easy walkups. If you are in the Boston area the quarries are worth checking out, just clean anything worth pilfering out of your car.

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