Best Rock Climbing in Connecticut

Trying to find the best rock climbing in Connecticut? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

Connecticut, Meriden

00 :02 hrs
0.1 mi
26.951813 ft
Various

East Peak is the name for a collection of cliffs looming above the city of Meriden. Ranging from the Castle Crag below the rock castle on the mountain top to the Fall Wall on the east side of the mountain, the cliffs here are standard central Connecticut traprock and have an abundance of nice vertical cracks and dihedrals. The easiest access to the cliffs is from the top of the summit road and the trail that leads east from the parking area. Bear in mind that this road has a gate that closes at 4:45 p.m. daily and is generally not open at all November through April. Climbing is technically illegal at most of the sites in this area (on town of Meriden property) but is generally tolerated. The crags can also be accessed from below via some fainter paths (with parking at Hubbard Park.)

2

Connecticut, Hartford County

00 :29 hrs
0.9 mi
55.272614 ft
Various

The Firewall is a small cliff densely packed with a mix of sport and trad routes and has one of the largest roofs in the state. The cliff is located in a town (Southington) park with numerous trails and a reservoir, and a $25 annual parking pass is required to park in the lot, which is gated, so please be aware of the time. There is NO parking on the roads within at least a mile of the park. From the lot, follow the trail along the south shore of the lake, then take a left at the four-way intersection. The trail leads to the top of the cliff. Rap down or walk around to the base. Be aware that rattlesnakes and copperheads have been sighted here.

3

Connecticut, Hartford County

00 :10 hrs
0.2 mi
31.32074 ft
Various

Pinnacle Rock is a well-known spot for local climbers (and other users) though it receives little attention outside of Connecticut. Tucked away behind a quiet suburban neighborhood, Pinnacle offers a wide variety of routes, mostly in the easy to moderate range, on central Connecticut's signature basalt traprock. The cliffs are located on private land and access is a very sensitive issue here, so please be mindful, especially with regard to parking (there are lots of no parking signs) noise, and litter. From the bend in the road, take the jeep track to a concrete block, then turn right onto the trail. The left end of the cliffs appears after a short uphill walk, and more climbable rock continues on for several hundred yards to the right.

4

Connecticut, Meriden

00 :03 hrs
0.1 mi
7.8408737 ft
Various

Cathole Mtn is a small crag that packs in several good moderate to expert routes on central Connecticut's signature traprock. The very short approach adds to the crag's popularity, but the traffic noise from the nearby road can hinder communication. Cathole is also known for somewhat loose rock, as the talus pile at its base attests to. All of the climbs here can be done trad or on toprope; the trail to the top is around the far right end and is short but steep and loose. Toprope anchors can be made at the top, but the trees are set back a good 20' from the cliff top.

5

Connecticut, Hartford County

00 :30 hrs
0.9 mi
75.23116 ft
Various

Ragged Mtn is the premier climbing destination in Connecticut. Climbing here dates from the 1930s, with several routes put up by greats like Fritz Wiessner. Though there are several crags spread out along the sides of Metacomet Ridge, only the main cliff, where the vast majority of quality well-known routes are situated, is located on land open to climbing. This deservedly popular spot suffers from a dearth of parking - the route shown here starts from Sheldon Rd., where there are a couple of spots on the street. There are a couple more spots on adjacent Moore Hill Dr. as well, but be advised that this is a residential area and spots that aren't blocking driveways or mailboxes are limited. Another parking option is at the Timberlin Park golf course a few miles' drive south and east. This is a good place to meet up and carpool. You can also walk the trails from the parking area at Timberlin to the start of the trail to Ragged Mtn, but this adds over two miles each way to the approach. Parking issues notwithstanding, Ragged Mtn contains a host of excellent volcanic traprock littered with vertical splitter cracks and a nice variety of steep to off-vertical routes in a lovely setting. To reach the cliff, follow a narrow road leading north off of Carey St. that is marked with the blue blazes of the Metacomet Trail. Continue for a few hundred feet before turning right into the woods, still following the blazes. If you encounter the Small Cliff, which has several routes but is no longer open to climbing, you've gone too far. Instead, follow the path left in the woods below the cliffs until you reach a sign; the main cliff (right end) begins shortly thereafter. Refer to the map in the attached photo or visit raggedmtn.org. Most of the routes are single-pitch and end at the top of the cliff. There are decent trails that descend from the top of the main cliff on either end; use them to return to the base.

6

Connecticut, Litchfield County

00 :14 hrs
0.4 mi
29.615402 ft
Various

Whitestone Cliff, tucked away in the hills north of Waterbury, has seen many decades of climbing activity and has several good routes, yet remains relatively obscure. The rock is solid and provides several crack, corner, face, and slab routes (trad and TR) spread out over the four main areas: The Right Side, closest to the approach, The Main Slab, the largest area, and the Lower Cliff and Lower Lower Cliff, which are much less frequently visited. The approach trail follows the blue-blazed old road for a quarter mile or so before turning right, still on blue blazes, and down on a trail to a stream crossing. When the trail becomes very rocky and the cliff loom left, descend left along the base of the cliffs to reach the Right Side and Main Slab areas. There is a path on the far left that loops back up to climb to the summit, which affords good views due to a small fire in 2010 that killed the trees there.

7

Connecticut, Litchfield County

00 :18 hrs
0.3 mi
91.87687 ft
Various

The Upper Ledges, often divided into the Trail Magic area on the left and the Super Slab to the right, are located right along the Appalachian Trail and are deceptively tall (up to 100') because their slabby nature makes them appear to curve out of your line of vision. This area is very popular with large groups of beginning climbers on top rope (there are often large vans parked at the trailhead) but there is plenty of rock. Set up topropes and descend via a gully on the far right.

8

Connecticut, Litchfield County

00 :06 hrs
0.1 mi
22.380577 ft
Various

The lower ledges of St. John's Ledges house a small collection of routes on a quiet rock outcrop below the Appalachian Trail. They can be accessed by taking the small trail on the left a few dozen feet past the large tree with the map box nailed to it. The lower ledges are more vertical than the upper ones, but are only about 25 feet high. Nonetheless, there is some good easy and moderate routes here.

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