Prusik Peak: South Face
Chelan County, Washington
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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18 :33 hrs
9.2 mi
5527 ft
III
Mountaineering

The south face of Prusik Peak is a wall of 600 vertical feet of some of the cleanest granite in the Cascades. The face is quite imposing from the Enchantment Lakes to the south, but is frequently climbed. From Lake Viviane, hike north to the base of the main south face. The traditional route begins at the base of a deep chimney with little protection. Angle up and right followed by a short left to a ledge. Continue diagonally right up slabs to a smaller chimney, then right onto Snafflehound Ledge in two pitches. Traverse east then up another pitch to a small tree. From here, there are 3 more pitches up a series of cracks to a notch east of the summit. Overall, there are 10 leads. Descent is via a rappel on the north face followed by a hike to Prusik Pass and the trails back to high camp. Camping is strictly regulated by a quota system and it can be difficult to obtain a spot with less than a few months advance planning. Contact the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest for more information. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. III 5.9.

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