The North Ridge of Mt Stuart is a classic alpine ascent with a challenging approach and climbing. The most frequent approach is from the south via Ingalls Lake following the same route as for the West Ridge until, near the start of climbing on that route, a traverse is followed to Goat Pass northwest of the mountain. Traverse across the Stuart Glacier, which can be glare ice late in the season, to a gully trending east at an approximate right angle to the North Ridge. The gully tops out at about 8,200 feet to where the climbing begins. There are between 15 and 18 pitches from here to the summit. The first 11 pitches to the Great Gendarme vary from scrambling to 5.7. When you reach the base of the Great Gendarme, make a 75 foot rappel to the west and into a 55 degree crack that can hold ice well into summer. Traverse right on a friction slab and up to a ledge. From here, it's mostly Class 4 along a subsidiary spur to the summit. Descent is usually via the Cascadian Couloir. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. III 5.7