Forbidden Peak: East Ridge Direct
Skagit County, Washington
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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12 :23 hrs
4.2 mi
5481 ft
III
Mountaineering

Forbidden Peak's pyramidal summit is a very popular objective due to its accessibility, stunning alpine scenery, and solid rock. The East Ridge Direct route is scenic and technical and significantly less crowded than the West Ridge route. To access the ridge, follow the climber's trail to Boston Basin (camping allowed but limited, pick up a permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station) and locate a gully that leads to a snowfield west of the ridge, which is reached at about 8,300 feet. The East Ridge is known for its spectacular scenery and exposure as well as the series of overhanging gendarmes that are usually directly climbed (but most of which can be traversed if desired.) The route essentially follows the ridge directly to the summit. On the descent, most parties either take the West Ridge route or make about 5 rappels down the East Face to a series of ledges that lead south to the point where you can cross back to Boston Basin. III 5.8

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