First climbed in 1964, Mount Huntington is a classic to summit in the Alaska Range and considered one of the most beautiful peaks in North America. The perfect pyramid face offers outstanding rock with several lines to the top. The West Face Couloir Route is a straightforward climb with easy access. It climbs a hidden couloir that splits the parallel ridges. Approach from the Tokostina Glacier and plan 1-2 weeks for the trip. Most parties leave behind their bivy gear and bring jackets, a shovel and a stove for resting rather than full bivy gear. Typical camps include: Advanced Base Camp (8,900ft.)-located at the base of the Stegosaur near the south end. The Nose (11,000ft.)- the best bivy along the route located underneath the Nose roof. There are some old bolts on the wall that can be used as an anchor. The Cave (11,400ft.)- located above the nose there is a large cave that can be dug into for a small bivy. Summit Ice-field Boulder (11,800ft.)- good anchor and close to the summit but would be time consuming. Storms on the face are intense but it is possible to withdraw at any time by rappel. Be aware of avalanche conditions in the access couloir and upper snow fields. Bring 4-5 cams to 2”, one set of stoppers, 8-10 ice screws, 2 pickets, 2-200ft. ropes and 2 ice tools per person.