Mount Huntington: Harvard Route
Denali County, Alaska
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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12 :14 hrs
2.8 mi
5613 ft
VI
Mountaineering

First climbed in 1964, Mount Huntington is a classic to summit in the Alaska Range and considered one of the most beautiful peaks in North America. The perfect pyramid face offers outstanding rock with several lines to the top. The Harvard Route is a graceful line up the West Face of Mount Huntington. Approach from the Tokostina Glacier and plan 2 weeks for the trip. Beginning from the Tokositna Glacier, the technical route is usually done in 3-4 days, using 2-3 days to climb and 1-2 days to descend. Typical camps include: Advanced Base Camp (8,900ft.)-located at the base of the Stegosaur near the south end. Upper Park (10,200ft.)-good place for a bivy but not safe during a storm. The Nose (11,000ft.)- the best bivy along the route located underneath the Nose roof. There are some old bolts on the wall that can be used as an anchor. The Cave (11,400ft.)- located above the nose there is a large cave that can be dug into for a small bivy. Summit Ice-field Boulder (11,800ft.)- good anchor and close to the summit but would be time consuming. Storms on the face are intense but it is possible to withdraw at any time by rappel. Be aware of avalanche conditions in the access couloir and upper snow fields. Bring 6 or 7 cams to 3” with 2 one inch and 1.5 inch sizes, one set of stoppers, a selection of 4-6 thin and medium pins, 6-8 ice screws and two pickets.

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