Mount Hunter: West Ridge Route
Matanuska-Susitna County, Alaska
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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26 :32 hrs
8.8 mi
7865 ft
IV
Mountaineering

Sitting at 14,570 feet, Mount Hunter is one of the “big three” in the Alaskan Range and the most difficult fourteener in North America. There are three summits with the northern being the highest. The West Ridge Route begins from the Kahiltna Glacier Base camp, which requires air service by plane. It is considered the standard of the two classic routes and climbs the 4½-mile narrow icy ridge to the summit. With approximately 8,000ft of climbing, most parties spend 10-14 days to summit. Because of the lower elevation, acclimatizing is easily done while you ascend. The climb has a variety of rock, mixed, ice and corniced ridge climbing. Several locations exist along the ridge to camp, but cornices can be scary. Use caution through the frequently avalanched icefall as you pass through the basin that leads onto the ridge. Bring 3-4 cams up to 2”, 6 stoppers, 4-5 ice screws, 2-3 pickets, 2 200ft. ropes and two ice-tools per person.

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