Mount Barrill: Japanese Couloir
Denali County, Alaska
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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04 :44 hrs
1.3 mi
2469 ft
IV
Mountaineering

Mount Barrill is considerably smaller than its towering neighbors, but has superb rock quality and is sought after by hard-core rock climbers. Beginning from the Ruth Gorge Airstrip, the approach is about 30 minutes. The Japanese Couloir was first climbed by the Japanese in 1975 and can usually be done in one day. Be extra cautious of the couloir after a storm or during a warm spell. As you ascend the couloir, it will steepen and gets significantly narrower for the last 300ft. The Col is actually on a separate spur, but the West Ridge can be reached by downclimbing off the back side and making a traverse under a rock wall. Climb up the gully to gain the crest of the West Ridge. To descend make a series of rappels down the couloir. Bring 2-3 cams to 1”, 6-8 stoppers, 3 ice screws, two pickets, 2-200ft. ropes and two ice tools per person.

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