Mooses Tooth: West Ridge
Denali County, Alaska
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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13 :15 hrs
2.8 mi
5120 ft
V
Mountaineering

Rising abruptly in the Alaksan Range, Mooses Tooth is a rugged granite monolith that offers unforgettable views. The West Ridge Route climbs the long and sharp spine of the Mooses Tooth. It involves a difficult and dangerous ridge travers, with steep ice climbing, and dangerous cornices. Most groups that climb the West Ridge Route only reach the lower West Summit. Continuing to the Main (east) Summit becomes complex and extremely dangerous. The climb to the West Summit can be done in one long day from Ruth Glacier, but is more enjoyable with a high camp on Moose’s Back (7,000 to 8,000 feet). To descend from the West Summit rappel and trace your steps along the ridge back to Ruth Glacier. Bring 2 or 3 small cams, 6 to 8 stoppers, 3 or 4 pitons, 6 ice screws and 2 pickets. Take 2 200-ft. ropes and 2 ice tools per person.

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