Denali: West Rib
Denali County, Alaska
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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20 :11 hrs
7.7 mi
12432 ft
III
Mountaineering

First climbed in 1913, Denali is the highest point in the United States, the Alaska Range and North America. It offers one of the world’s greatest expeditions with some of the most intense weather in the world. The West Rib is a direct line with a step up in technical difficulty from the West Buttress route. It requires the risk of entering the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna, where danger of terrible avalanches is common. The average expedition is 3 weeks and requires air service by plane to reach the Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp. While several camping locations exist, the most commonly used camps are Safe Camp (9,450ft.)- A crevasse-free area but has extreme danger for avalanches. Couloir Camp (11,000ft.)- Safest camp in the area but is exposed to rock-fall. Apex Camp (12,900ft)-Located on the ridge and requires digging for a level tent. Top of Second Snow Dome (13,900ft)-The wide and exposed are where the ridge flattens out. Begschrund Camp (14,800ft)-A well protected spot on the ridge. Upper Ridge (15,700 to 16,400ft)-Several small campsites along the crest. 17,000-foot Camp- Also known as the Balcony Camp. This is the last place for camping along the ridge. Storms are ferocious here. Bring 6-8 ice screws, 2 or 3 cams, a set of stoppers and 2-4 pickets. 2 165 or 200ft. ropes, two ice tools per person. Snowshoes can be helpful along the approach. Alaska Grade IV.

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